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Tools

Drill or Impact Driver? Most People Buy the Wrong One First

They look similar, they take similar batteries, and they are not interchangeable. Here is what each one is for and which belongs in a first tool purchase.

A worker driving a screw with a cordless drill

Walk into any hardware store and you will find two cordless tools that look like cousins, cost about the same, and share a battery. One is a drill. The other is an impact driver. Sold as a pair, they are marketed as a set you need both of, which is true eventually and not true on day one.

The difference is in how they apply force. A drill spins, continuously and smoothly, and its clutch limits how hard it twists before it slips. An impact driver spins too, but when it meets resistance it starts hammering rotationally, hundreds of short bursts per second. That is why it drives a long screw into a stud without stalling, and why it sounds like a woodpecker doing it.

A row of drill bits with hex and SDS shanks
Impact drivers take hex shank bits only. A drill's three-jaw chuck takes almost anything, which is most of the reason it stays useful.

What each one is genuinely better at

The drill wins at making holes, at anything needing a controlled amount of torque, and at every bit that is not a hex shank. Hole saws, spade bits, wire brushes, mixing paddles, small brass screws you do not want to snap. The clutch is the feature, because it stops before it strips.

The impact driver wins at long fasteners, deck screws, lag bolts, anything into hardwood, and anything where a drill would twist your wrist instead of the screw. It is lighter than a drill of the same class and it fits places a drill does not.

If you only buy one

Buy the drill. This surprises people who have used an impact driver and love it, but a drill does eighty percent of an impact driver’s job badly and an impact driver cannot make a hole with a spade bit at all. The drill is the tool that handles a wider range of unexpected problems, and the first tool you own should be the flexible one.

The exception

If your immediate project is a deck, a fence, or anything involving hundreds of long screws, buy the impact driver first and borrow a drill. That specific job is miserable with a drill and quick with an impact.

What actually matters when choosing

Battery platform matters more than the tool. Once you own two batteries and a charger from one manufacturer, every future purchase is effectively discounted, because bare tools cost far less than kits. Choose the ecosystem you expect to stay in and worry about the individual tool second.

Brushless motors are worth it if you use the tool regularly. They run longer per charge, run cooler and last longer. For a tool that comes out four times a year, a brushed motor is fine and cheaper.

Ignore the maximum torque figure on the box. It is measured in a way that has little to do with your work, and every manufacturer measures it favorably. Weight and balance tell you more about whether you will actually use the thing.

The accessory that changes everything

More people are let down by bits than by tools. Cheap driver bits round out the screw head, cam out under load and turn a five-minute job into a repair. A set of decent impact-rated bits costs a fraction of the tool and makes both tools feel better than they are.

The same goes for drill bits. A sharp, well-made twist bit cuts a clean hole with light pressure. A dull one burns, wanders and forces you to lean on the tool, which is how holes end up crooked.

The short answer

One tool, first purchase, general household use: a brushless drill from whichever battery platform you plan to build on, plus a good bit set. Add the impact driver when a project makes you wish you had one. That moment arrives on its own and you will know it.

Questions people ask

Can an impact driver drill holes?

With hex shank drill bits, yes, for rough work. It cannot take standard round shank bits, hole saws or spade bits, which is most of what you drill with.

Will an impact driver strip screws?

Less often than a drill will, because it delivers rotational blows instead of continuous twist. Poor quality bits cause far more stripped heads than either tool does.

Do I need a hammer drill as well?

Only if you drill into masonry or concrete. Many drills include a hammer mode, which is adequate for occasional wall fixings but not for sustained work.

Why is an impact driver so loud?

The noise is the mechanism working. An internal hammer strikes an anvil many times per second, which is what produces the torque. Hearing protection is sensible for long sessions.

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